Abaco Nights - The Bahamian Lesson
A page from my Abaco vacation journal:
Mar 23rd
It's such a love-hate affair with these Bahamian breezes.With the dregs of midnight showers still dripping through the portholes, we blearily switched the VHF to channel 68, waiting for the morning coffee to percolate, and listened hopefully for news of a break in the weather.
It doesn't matter beyond the academic - I'm going home. Time's up.
I've seen so much here that I appreciate - eggshell white sands and raspberry kool-aid waves and boats, everywhere boats, tended to by smaller boats and dwarfed by bigger boats, knowing I was among the crowd where "boat" was at once the single measure of currency and a way of life.
Still, it wasn't a perfect setting.
Weather tempered much of our available sailing time, as towering clouds sprayed up the Atlantic wall; viscious rain gods, with their thirty-knot winds and breaking ocean rollers, they held us fast to our moorings for too many hours.
And at eight in the morning, I was up, lurking around the boat in bare feet, trying not to wake anyone, waiting for the report like a kid at Christmas - waiting for the good news - that there was finally a break in the beating we were taking and I could turn to my crew with satisfaction and say that the beast was slain, that we would emerge from the dark land caves of bollards and AC power cables and be back in it, with anchor chain and sun and swimming - God, give me swimming.
Those clouds, that wind, the rain squalls, they haunted us from anchorage to anchorage, and both the VHF and our own eyes bore witness enough to the consequences - broken anchors, lost dinghies, and boats hard aground, stark and sunken white flakes against lead sky. It still stirs my stomach to think of the grounded sailboat we passed, awaiting the storm - it could have been our twin. She was a Beneteau, rigged like ours, painted like ours. She was us but for a few thousand yards.Nor were we particularly invincible - it hurts my new, still-soft captain's pride to recall a horrible pullout from the dock at White Sound that involved a snagged anchor, a bent stanchion, a punched-in bollard post, and our boat, wrenched off ninety degrees, out of control. Wind is a menace, and all too often, a mystery that commands my attention in devious, destructive ways.
There was so much to demotivate and depress a guy who just wants to show everyone a good time, almost to seeking out the inevitable conspiracy at the highest levels of climate that had gotten together just to teach this new skipper a lesson.
What a bunch of jerks.
And yet.
It was about one in the morning when I decided to go for a walk on the piers that ringed the south edge of Marsh Harbour.
I passed boats in quiet seclusion, peered down at the strange yellow power umbilicals flapping astern to the beat of the waves, and followed the little umbrella dock lights until I reached the end of the finger pier. From there, the next step led off into the water, black with nightfall.
When I looked out, I saw a field of stars low on the horizon, and so close they beckoned for touch. I sat down and let my eyes adjust, and I could then pick out the little toothpicks they stood on - a swarm - hundreds - hundreds of sailboats anchored in harbor with their white lights on, signaling their sedentary position for the night, picking out and announcing their place in the universe, the white alight, saying "here I am".
Here I am.
And I smiled.
As I've found out time and again, cruising by sailboat is no exact science, and the loose tolerances in the whole human mechanism of the thing often lead to a type of fluid, carefree action; that is what refreshes me so much about sailing and cruising. You go and you stay and you drop the hook as you please, and it's you and your reason and sense to determine what's right for you, your boat, and your crew.I look back and realize my eyes saw beauty that I didn't recognize until that moment that the man-made stars aligned and showed me the lesson I was waiting all this time to learn. The next step.
Take a chance. Brave the wind. Trust yourself. Strike the light. Say, "here I am".
Sure, it had to be on the last day of the voyage.
But better late than never.
What a beautiful trip.
See the Photos from the Abaco Trip
Labels: bahamas, charles cox, sailing, vacation









